With spring upon us it seems natural to start with kayaking since spring rains will bring up the water levels of the rivers, which are for the most part less passable when the water levels are low in the summertime.
There are three pieces of equipment that are critical to kayaking. The kayak itself, a paddle and a pfd (personal flotation device). During the early and late season law requires the pfd be worn but during warmer summer weather the pfd does not have to be worn but needs to be in the watercraft with you.
12’ sit-on-top kayak
When looking for a kayak you have many options, new or used. You can pick up a brand new starter kayak for $300 or less at retailers like Walmart or even a “tough as nails“ Pelican during the summer kayak sale at Dick’s Sporting Goods for under $200. However, for only a little more you can pick up high-end and high-quality brand name kayak used from a local outfitter (rental business) who usually sell their older kayaks after two to four seasons of use. Three of the top brands are Wilderness Systems, Necky and Old Town. I’ve seen Wilderness Systems and Necky kayaks that retail for $1000 or more for sale used from an outfitters fleet of rentals for as low as $300-$400... and that’s hard to beat. Often times if you don’t want to spend a fortune you have to choose two of the following three - price, durability or weight. Buying used can get you around that limitation.
12’ Wilderness Systems sit-in kayak.
Starting with the kayak itself, the differences between a low-end $200-$300 kayak and a high-end $1000+ kayak are huge. The low end kayaks are not as durable so they will have much shorter lifespans. They also tend to not track as well (maintain a straight line) and are usually slower. Not to mention less options. I highly recommend, if you’re not going to buy new, to at least look into a used rental from a quality brand. If you pick up a $1000 Wilderness Systems or a Necky, used, for only $400, you can still expect to get many, many years out of a quality kayak like that. And you’ll not only have an increased life span from your kayak, but it will track better, go faster, be more comfortable and likely come with more options (think tie downs, storage, dashboards, cup holders, etc.)
The first question to ask yourself when purchasing a kayak is do you want a sit on or a sit in. A sit-on is just that, you sit on top of the kayak. There is no cockpit. Your legs and most gear are fully exposed to the sun and any water that would otherwise wash across the deck. This type is best if you also want to use it for fishing and hunting. They’re usually easier to get in and out of, not to mention giving you the ability to stretch out if needed due to the open nature of the kayak. The other type is sit in, where you’re inside the cockpit and your legs are covered and extra gear can be stowed below the deck. These types of kayaks are best for higher class rivers as they can also be outfitted with skirts that are waterproof/resistant that seal the cockpit around you so that no water gets in. Either can be used for river runs or evening lake paddles.
Relaxing river run.
With paddles too, you get what you pay for. You can pick up cheap aluminum or plastic paddles for $20-$30 or you can pick up a higher end fiberglass or carbon fiber paddle for $100, $200 or more. If you’re just starting out, don’t paddle often or for long durations a cheap paddle is a good beginner option but if you spend any amount of time on the water the higher end paddles will make your experience much better. For short paddles you may not notice the difference between a heavy/cheap paddle and a lightweight expensive paddle. But if you ever begin to paddle distances or spend a lot of time on the water you’ll find that the lightweight paddles that cost more money also mean less fatigue, letting you go longer and have a more enjoyable experience.
The final required piece of equipment is the pfd, required by law. There are many types including over the head, front zip or a belt pack that you can manually inflate or that automatically inflate for you if you hit the water. The belt packs are far more comfortable and less cumbersome but can cost more money.
10’ Pelican sit-in, lake paddle.
Once you have the minimum required equipment you’re going to have to transport it. Most SUVs and crossovers come with rails and many include the crossbars. If not you’ll have to buy your own set. Two of the top aftermarket brands are Thule and Yakima. I have always been partial to Thule. Both of these brands sell add-on on carriers that attach to the crossbars. They make specialty carriers for kayaks, paddle boards, surfboards, skis and more. I highly recommend going this route as opposed to just tying them down with ropes or cord as some people do. It’s important to note that these specialty carriers are made for carrying this type of equipment on car roofs at highway speeds. There’s a big risk if your gear isn’t secure and were to come loose. Not only could you destroy your equipment but you could put others on the road at risk. If you lost your gear on the road because it was improperly secured, not only could you lose and ruin your equipment but you’d be liable for any damage (personal or property) you caused to others. I’ve made three hour runs (each way) at highway speeds with multiple 12’ kayaks on Thule carriers on my roof going kayaking in Maine and they never budged. There’s comfort in that level of security. Not to mention, Thule racks and carriers have keyed locks, so if you had to make a rest stop for a bathroom break, or maybe lunch, you know your gear will still be there when you get back to you car.
To be continued.
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