Many people use terms like sport coat and blazer interchangeably and refer to shirts with buttons as “button-downs”. Since these names and many other misused terms refer to very specific garments I’ve put together the below list to help educate The Fedora Files readers so that you’ll all be better informed about what you’re wearing then the next guy. 😁
Sport coat, blazer and suit jacket.
Three different names, three different items. Simply put, a sport coat is the descendant of the tweed hunting jacket. Sport coats tend to be heavier fabric and are more likely to be textured or patterned. The blazer is, traditionally, wool and blue with gold or silver buttons. The suit jacket is the lightest fabric of the three, usually a light weight wool, made with matching pants meant to be worn together. Other fabrics can be found in either, such as linen or silk, but the above high level view is a good place to start. Have an orphaned suit jacket? Don’t throw it away so quickly, you might be able to repurpose it as a sport coat or blazer.
Sport coat - heavier and textured.
Sport coat with a fine check pattern.
Blazer in navy blue with traditional brass buttons.
Suit coat, much lighter wool with matching pants.
Button up vs button down.
Both shirts have buttons running down the front. The difference is the collar. If the shirt has buttons on the collar it’s a button down. No buttons on the collar is a button up.
Button-down, left. Button-up, right.
Suspenders vs braces.
Both hold up your pants. Suspenders are straps that go over your shoulders and clip on to the waist of your pants usually with metal clips. Braces are straps that go over your shoulders and attach to buttons sewn inside the waist of your pants with either leather or cloth ends. Traditionally in the UK they’re referred to as braces and in the US as suspenders, but the above guide is the general rule.
Leather straps on braces attach to buttons sewn inside the waistband of your pants.
Clip on or leather straps - sone cone with both so you can choose. Remove the option you don’t want.
Never wear a belt with suspenders or braces. Just, don’t. It’s one or the other. While a belt can be worn with both casual and dress pants, stick to suits and dress pants when wearing braces. While belts should match the shoes, it’s acceptable to have contrasting braces. Many argue that braces are healthier and more comfortable than belts - I question the veracity of the healthier argument but they are unquestionably more comfortable and more stylish than the belt. Mork and Steve Urkel wear suspenders. Gentlemen wear braces. Be a gentleman. 😉
Khakis / chinos.
Let’s be clear. Technically, khaki is a color, not clothing. Although nowadays referring to tan or khaki trousers as “khakis” is about as ubiquitous as calling a tissue, Kleenex. By today’s “acceptable” standards, “khakis” are a heavier and thicker cotton twill, more of a straight/loose/boxy cut and the more casual of the two, yet acceptable for “business casual”. Khakis are, as the name implies, going to be a tan color.
Khakis tend to be heavier fabrics with straight legs and minimal visible stitching.
Chinos are dressier than khakis. They tend to be lighter fabric (though still cotton twill) and have a more tailored / fitted look to them, in many cases slightly tapering at the ankle. Chinos may also have noticeable stitching, adding to the slightly dressier nature of chinos. Chinos may be khaki or any number of other colors.
Chinos tend to be much lighter fabrics, have more visible stitching and taper slightly near the ankle.
Hearing someone explain how they just bought a pair of dark blue khakis is like listening to Abbott and Costello’s “Who’s on first” or asking “how much does a five pound bag of potatoes weigh...”
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